Horseback Riding Vacation in India (Day 11)

Day 11 - In the morning we are off by bus on the four hour journey across the desert toward Jaisalmer which towers far above the surrounding desert like “a mirage of golden stone”. It reminds me of Carcassonne in southern France though it is far larger. I know no other city in the world which invokes such a feeling of exotic magic unless it might be Machu Pichu. Its long history of triumph and tragedy, full of heroic deeds and passionate romance, lives up to its outward appearance. This citadel is perched on a vast outcropping of rock which makes the fortress nearly impregnable. Massive walls enhance the natural defenses of this fabulous city which is over a thousand years old. Its position on the spice route gave it a rich source of revenue for centuries by levying taxes on the vast camel caravans coming from as far as central Asia. The wealth of the city faded somewhat in the 18th century as Bombay (now called Mumbai) began to develop as a sea port.

Rivalries with neighboring cities like Bikaner and Jodhpur caused frequent warfare. Legend has it that in the 13th century after a siege of seven years the residents realized that the situation was hopeless and instead of surrendering they primed themselves with opium, killed their women and children and sallied forth to sell their lives as dearly as possible.

We arrived in time to see a camel display put on by the Border Security Forces of the army which involved 50 or 60 magnificent camels doing complicated maneuvers in a huge arena. These animals can carry a small arsenal and are trained to lie down on command so as to form a barricade for their riders to protect them from enemy bullets.

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